L'orientalisme par excellence - La Tunisie vue de France

Dans un entretien avec deux activistes politiques tunisiens 'de passage à Paris' paru sur son blog sur Mediapart Jean-Pierre Anselme estime que 'les libertés publiques et la démocratie [en Tunisie] chèrement acquises par la révolution sont en péril.' Malheureusement il tombe profondément dans le piège de l’Orientalisme en décrivant une Tunisie du point de vue de l'Europe - voire par la bourgeoisie tunisienne occidentalisée. Non seulement les - soi-disant - faits sont faux à plusieurs reprises, mais - plus gravement - il donne une image de la Tunisie qui s'accorde peu avec la réalité vécue dans ce pays et par la majorité de ses citoyens.

Commençons très vite par les faits erronés. Les 'quatre cents salafistes [qui auraient] dévasté et incendié un hôtel, à Jendouba' étaient plutôt deux cents. L'application de la charia [sic!] 'dans la même province' n'a pas mené a l'amputation de 'la main d'un jeune homme,' mais seulement à une telle tentative. Ces incidents sont certes graves mais en les exagérant Anselme ne contribue pas à une discussion sérieuse sur les dangers et la réalité du mouvement salafiste ainsi que sur l'importance croissante de l'Islam en Tunisie.

Voici pour ces raccourcis intellectuels et erreur idéologiques - orientaliste je dirais vu qu'il n'arrive pas à voir les développements politiques en Tunisie autrement que par un prisme exclusivement français, européen voire occidental. Ennahdha pour lui est un parti 'modéré' entre guillemets seulement qui s'attaque à '« l'état civil », (le nom donné à la laïcité par les démocrates tunisiens).' Je me demande pourquoi le parti vainqueur des premières élections démocratiques de la Tunisie depuis des décennies ne fait pas partie des démocrates tunisiens. Les démocrates sont-ils seulement les laïques - c'est à dire ceux qui partagent avec l'auteur sa conception de l'État? De plus je doute qu'Anselme réalise à quel point l’existant état civil est déjà imprégné par l'Islam et à quel point la minorité qui défend un État laïque en Tunisie est faible. Aucun parti majeur ne remet en cause l'importance de l'Islam pour le pays et son État, dont la référence est depuis l'indépendance inscrite dans le premier article de sa constitution. L'affirmation de Jebali 'que « l'islam est la religion de l'État, avec tout ce que cela implique »' à laquelle Anselme s'attaque n'est donc rien qu'un constat des faits.

Suite à cette introduction de l'auteur vient son entretien avec deux activistes politiques de gauche. Il relaie à plusieurs reprises des positions peu fondées voire fausses de la gauche intellectuelle et extrêmement minoritaire en Tunisie. Entre autres il n'est pas vrai que le 'gouvernement Ennahdha se tait sur les violences salafistes en Tunisie' (lien).  Ces activistes des partis ayant perdu des élections ont-ils des preuves quand ils affirment que le parti islamique a gagné des élections par l’achat des voix?

Anselme demande à ses deux interlocuteurs comment ils expliquent 'cette suprématie des islamistes dans un pays comme la Tunisie qui s'était jusqu'ici démarqué du reste du Maghreb sur la place de la religion dans la société.' On s'étonne qu'un militant d'une 'révolution démocratique et sociale' ne vois pas la réalité cruelle. La Tunisie au 20ème siècle n'a été rien d'autre qu'un pays gouverné dictatorialement d'en haut, d'abord par la France puis par une élite francophone peu liée à une majorité de la Tunisie moins éduquée, plus religieuse et plus arabe (dans le sens moins occidentalisée) qu'elle. La suprématie des islamistes n'est en rien surprenant en fait, ils avaient sans doute déjà gagné des élections de 1989 (lien), et l'importance de la religion en Tunisie est prépondérant pour tout visiteur du parti qui ne se restreint pas aux hôtels touristiques ou la banlieue huppé de Tunis.

Cet article/entretien ne fait rien qu'affirmer une image partielle et fausse d'un pays dans une transition démocratique évidemment extrêmement difficile et fragile. Il pâtit d'un prisme orientaliste du Maghreb en Europe qui a dans le passé mené au soutien de régimes dictatoriaux et qui aujourd'hui amplifie dans les médias européens des voix occidentalisées mais peu représentatives de leur propre pays. C'est moins du journalisme que Mediapart et Anselme font ici que de l'activisme idéologique et politique soit en tombant dans le piège de l'élite tunisienne soit par leur propre volonté.

White liberal European immigrants in Berlin

Joel Alas, in the English edition of the Tagesspiegel, denounces the 'demonizing of “international party tourists” (which includes longer-term foreigners who remain for months or years)' as 'a form of racism and xenophobia.' For him:

The arguments used against foreigners – rising rents, noisy streets, neighbourhood upheaval – should be directed toward the government policies which have enabled such changes, and the landlords who have taken advantage of deregulated rental prices. Stop blaming foreigners for Berlin’s political and economic structural problems.

Mark Espiner touts a similar horn in his article Berlin doesn't love you focusing on Neukölln. Yet, especially Alas, completely misunderstands the premise of the wave of criticism that has hit Berlin's party tourists and offers a Todschlagargument in response that it impossible to counter but that is simply invalid.

It is not because of racism that these short- and longer-term foreigners are met with a (semi-)hostile attitude. Rather one has to clearly differentiate between classic immigration waves of Turks, Poles or Serbs, which intended to (re)create their lives in Berlin and modern party tourists. The problem with the latter lies in their superficial presence in Berlin. They live there in passing only, without necessarily truly knowing the language, without regard nor knowledge of German or Berlin history or literature. They are part of Berlin but not of it as Churchill might put it.

Don't get me wrong, most of my recent Berlin friends are foreigners. I personally lived in Paris until a few days ago only and am now residing in Tunis. I like foreigners, I am one myself most of the time. But I speak and write French, I lived in Paris as a Parisian surrounded by French friends, speaking French, reading French literature and newspapers, listening to French music. In Tunisia now, I am starting to learn Arabic tomorrow. I will not restrict myself to German or French friends. In fact, I despise expat community living.

Yet, that is what most Western foreigners coming to Berlin do. They come for the party, for the cheap rents. They come for the fun, not to truly live there. Why the sudden emergence of English language editions of German newspapers? Isn't it just a question of common courtesy to speak the language of the place where you live? Especially since most of the people we are talking about here have at least finished their undergraduate studies, if not more?

If you're an American living in Paris, not speaking French, hanging out with your American friends or obliging your few French ones to speak English or if you're a German living in Mallorca doing the same thing, it is not racist to say that you're not contributing to the cohesiveness of the respective society, rather you're abetting its stratification. It is not xenophobic to say that you are contributing to gentrification (as do all the German middle class folks moving into cool neighborhoods of course) and the further exclusion of less well-earning parts of the general populace. Rather it is a denial of reality to claim that 'white liberal European immigrants' have not significantly changed Berlin - and not just in a good way, but that is a discussion that such be led without cheapshot arguments invoking the Nazi-threat without naming it and, quite honestly, it should also be led in German. Zumindest dann, wenn Du wirklich ein Berliner bist und willst, daß auch der Teil der Bevölkerung, der kein Englisch kann, daran teilnehmen soll.

Berlin gestern und heute

Berlin ist wie eine ehemalige Geliebte über die man nie hinwegkommt. Wer hier geboren ist, wird wohl Zeit seines Lebens nie eine gewisse Sentimentalität im Umgang mit dieser seiner Heimatstadt missen lassen. Dies um so mehr in Anbetracht der Tatsache, daß Berlin sich in einem Maße und Tempo verändert ist, welche zumindest in der restlichen westlichen Welt ihresgleichen suchen. In meiner Kindheit war (West-)Berlin eine Insel, Fahrten zu Verwandten in Westdeutschland - alleine die Bezeichnung verrät die innerliche Abgrenzung - dauerten Stunden inklusive langer Warte- und Stauzeiten an der Grenze. In meiner Jugend und Gymnasialzeit wiederum war die Mauer gefallen, der Osten lag offen und wir (meine erkundeten denselben. Clubs in renovierungsbedürftigen Bruchbuden und Kellerbauten, Bars ohne Lizenzen, Punks und andere Alternative überall. Berlin war voll von sogenannten Subkulturen, fuck, Berlin war eine Subkultur.

Dies blieb natürlich kein Geheimnis. Die Stadt füllte sich im Verlauf der 90er Jahre langsam aber sicher mit Auswärtigen - Schwaben, Amerikanern und anderen Ausländern. Eine Bereicherung der Stadt sollte man denken und individuell stimmt dies wohl auch aber die Masse zerstört was sie sucht. Denn die Zugewanderten waren ja vor allem normaler - oder: bürgerlicher - als die Anwohnenden. Sie mochten zwar auch gerne in coole Clubs und Bars gehen, waren aber nicht selber bereit im Gegenzug ihre Karriere aufzugeben. Dies waren keine Punks und andere Selbstaussteiger mehr, sondern coole, moderne Menschen, das Kleinbürgertum des 21. Jahrhunderts. Für alles offen, aber im eigenen Leben sich in serieller Monogamie ergebend, es zu etwas bringen wollen (was auch immer das sein mag), weltoffen aber patriotisch, Teil der Event- und Konsumkultur nicht der unpatriotischen Anti- und Drogenkultur, welche Berlin vorher dominiert hatte.

An dieser Stelle sollte ich wohl einfügen, daß ich mich - natürlich? - von dieser Gruppe von Menschen wenig unterscheide. An dieser Analyse etwas ändern tut dies nichts.

Prenzlauer Berg wurde schnell von einem bewohnten Geröllhaufen zu einem der teuersten Bezirke Berlins. Mitte entwickelte sich von einer hippen Bargegend zu einer Touristenmeile ohne jedweden Charakter. Friedrichshain wurde zu einer Bastion der bemüht coolen Menschen, dann verkam es zu einem Touristenpartydorf. Kreuzberg ist weit vorgerrückt auf seinem Entwicklungspfad von einem türkischen und Anarchobezirk zu einer Insel der westlichen Mittelklasse. Die letzten beiden Abende war ich nun in Neukölln. Auch hier hat jetzt der (inter-)nationale Partyjetset Einzug gehalten. Bars streng nach Bildungsniveau (und damit de fakto Ethnien) getrennt (keine Türken, keine Araber!) ziehen internationale, westliche pseudo-Alternative an (und einige echte Alternativen, welche als Musikanten für Unterhaltung und Flair sorgen).

Was in Berlin stattgefunden hat und sich weiter fortsetzt ist ein ganz normaler Prozess könnte man nun sagen. Gentrifikation. Normale quoi. Genauso wie in Brooklyn, im Pariser Nordosten und anderswo. Das stimmt natürlich. Und man muß sich auch die Nachteile des alten Berlins vor Augen halten, die hohe Arbeitslosigkeit, die Drogenszene, die prekäre wirtschaftliche Lage des Hauptteils der Bewohner der Berliner Innenstadt, schließlich die politische Isolierung und Machtlosigkeit der Alternativen- und Migrationsbezirke. Berlin war vielleicht sexy aber es war auf jeden Fall arm. Auch ästhetisch ließ sich das festhalten, der alte Zoo (Bahnhof) war alles andere als ansprechend. Straßen waren schmutzig, Häuser nicht renoviert, farblos und grau.

Berlin war häßlich, arm und voll von Problemen. Aber genau deswegen hatte Berlin einen Charm, den es heute vermissen lässt, Berlin war etwas Besonderes, das viele Jünger anzog, die zerstörten weswegen sie gekommen waren. Was in Berlin stattfand war - anders als in vielen anderen Städten - ein Prozess der Normalisierung nicht (allein) der Gentrifizierung. Berlin heute ist so wie der Rest der westlich-kapitalistischen Welt auch, dies war früher nicht der Fall. Ausländer (ob Deutsche oder nicht), welche heute nach Berlin kommen, verstehen dies nicht. Für sie ist Berlin cool, eine tolle Party- und Weggehstadt, immer noch alternativer als der Rest der Republik, vielleicht gar Europas. Sie haben wahrscheinlich recht, aber was sie nicht nachvollziehen/verstehen können ist die Nostalgie der Berliner gegenüber dem Häßlichen, dem Grauen, dem Besonderen, dem Unikaten was vorher war.

Austin reconsidered

My second stint in Austin is over. I was only there for two weeks this time around, but seeing how many people I knew there before showing up, it really was like going back to an old life once more. For better and for worse. Mais peu importe...

Steven Erlanger in Beyond Paradise and Power has a great quote on Germans in particular and Europeans in general who 'seem to live in a postwar, postconflict geopolitical fantasyland, where the greatest threat to existence, it seems, is the mixing of green glass with brown.' Maybe, but my argument would in fact be that sociologically and culturally speaking it is Americans who live in a consumer fantasyland where the the greatest threat to fast, mind-numbing, and - contradictorily in way, I know - safe fun is reality. Actually, let me rephrase that, it's not Americans in general of course, but rather it's economic middle class. While those at the bottom might strive for this utopian consumer culture, they are far removed from ever attaining it. I've talked about the mind-numbing aspect of this and coupled with Hartmut Rosa's theories that makes for a worrying development (as far as I am concerned and may normatively state that here). Yet, this time around, let's focus on the utopian character of American life.

This plays out in a number of ways. Living downtown Austin, I had the privilege of shopping daily in a gigantic, expensive supermarket boasting numerous food counters, a myriad of regular and rare healthy groceries and a classy outdoor seating area. It's a little island of safety, organic food and well-meaning people. The food is healthy and far less meat-heavy than the regular American diet, employees are genuinely nice, and the whole place is reeking of healthy and content individuals imagining themselves to save the world while they are busy shopping, sipping a buffalo grass milk shake. If you sit outside, you will be exposed to ever-present loudspeakers blasting muzak, a fake stream beneath fake, metal palms that are shielding the seating area. It's one of the best examples of the pretense of an ideal, problem-less, capitalist world I have ever seen. Hands down. Note, that one of the biggest aspects of this fantasyland is its exclusion of the outside world though. Thus, there are no poor people to distract you from your food, the music outside coupled with the lights and the fake stream allow you to enjoy the evening breeze without really being exposed to nature. It's the the sophisticated hippie's equivalent of riding a 4x4 in the wild and savage nature.

These attempts at de-naturizing outside areas are in fact the most fascinating and interesting part of middle-class Austin existence (that I noticed this time around in any case). My apartment building had a big patio to be used by all inhabitants of the building. It consisted of a fake waterfall, leading to a pool, ever-present (and always running) fans, lights and muzak impossible to turn off (trust me, I tried), and two couch areas centered around two big flat-screen TVs constantly blaring (except when I turned them off). What's the point? Well, you can meet with your friends watch TV, hang out and drink beers. Sounds like fun? Of course, but that's kind of the point. It's another example of how fun is to a large extent defined by cutting yourself from the outside world aka reality.

Now, the ironic thing for me is that I love being in the US of course. Yet, what I adore about it, is not the clean-cut world of the interchangeable department stores and food chains (that bore me to death). Nor the bars, playing their music too loud, offering cheap crappy bear and a chance at a busty blonde who is as unique in her going-out version (because ironically she could be interesting during the day) as the aforementioned food chains, these don't even bore me to some extent I abhor them. No what I like about the US in general and Austin in particular are the run-down, dirty places. The unsigned, badly paid musicians who rock a joint somewhere far away from 6th Street. The Hispanic only bars where communication in English becomes difficult. The basketball courts dominated by economically disadvantaged African-Americans who play ball all day, drink beer, smoke weed, have their wives and kids with them and talk shit to anyone currently playing especially if he is white. The conversations on American literature and the dirty undercurrent of American politics and history (Texas fought for slavery twice!). The fast-running banter between friends used to mocking one another in a way that would at best be considered impolite in most of Europe....

In one sentence: I will never understand this desire to exclude oneself from the outside world and immerse oneself into this clean, safe, interchangeable consumer fantasyland that makes up everyday life for most middle-class Americans and is a dream for much of the rest of the population.

Immigration and Integration the American Way

Maybe the biggest criticism of Europe that people here in Austin tend to stress is related to the Europeans supposed anti-immigration measures, the lack of integration possible in Europe, even worse, their basically racist policies versus immigrants. While this kind of universal and all-encompassing frontal attack - which is really what it is more often than just criticism - obviously and inherently is misleading and faulty, I have to admit that there is some truth to it. The recent proposals by the French government effectively wanting to create a second class of - recently naturalized - citizens, Merkel's reaction to proposals from Brüderle to increase even qualified immigration into Germany only, the Swiss referendum against minarets, Geert Wilder's astounding success in the national Dutch elections, this list could go on yet suffices to paint a bleak picture of European efforts (or rather lack thereof) at integrating its immigration populations.

I don't want to concentrate on European shortcomings here though, but would instead like to make a few observations on the situation in the USA, which, by the same people who criticize Europe, is usually seen as far less gloomy. Yet, recent developments here make far less evident if there is a more positive American attitude towards accepting people of all colors and races. The recent - since struck down in a federal court - Arizona law criminalizing illegal immigration and allowing for - arguably demanding it actually - racial profiling by the police caused quite a furor of course, resistance against an Islamic centre near the World Trade Center site in downtown Manhattan is a similar case which shows America's distrust versus the other - whether Hispanics or Muslims. Yet, the argument still stands that the United States successfully integrated wave after wave of immigration during the 18th and 19th centuries, well into the 20th century actually. The Italians, the Irish, the Germans, East European Jews, they all worked their way up the ladder and became an accepted part of American society.

Aside from the political polemic and a glorification of the American past - ignoring the immigrants' problems and difficulties for one - there are two main issues I have with this overly positive perception of the United States' integrationist capabilities.

One, integration in the United States never was - in any significant manner in any case - a two-way street, but instead a question of recent immigrants assimilating to mainstream - white, Anglo-Saxon - American culture. If you look at the immigration history into the United States you will notice two things. On the one hand the amazing amount of people from various backgrounds that have come to this country over the last 200 years and on the other hand how little the groups that arrived later on (post-Civil War basically) impacted American society in any but the most superficial manner. Obviously, everyone eats pizza now, Bagels have become ubiquitous, as has Tex-Mex, yet the most significant determinant of American society and culture remains a Protestant, puritan, Anglo-Saxon influence which was minuscule as far as sheer numbers are concerned in comparison to today's United States. The Catholic immigration of the Irish, Italians and today Latinos did not change that. Eastern European immigrants' attempts at worker organization and unions were violently put down and socialist ideas never really took hold in the US. Manifest Destiny, the imagery of the frontier, the ragged individual fighting against over-regulation and government interference remain popular and important points of reference even though in all reality, they have neither quantitatively (most immigrants having come far later) nor qualitatively much to do with today's United States. The melting pot is, maybe was even in Crèvecœur's day and age, a myth. Integration into the United States means acceptance of its founding myths, its capitalist system and puritan mindset, it means assimilation not the forging of a new society consisting of the differing attributes the manifold immigrants brought with them. Case in point, the never-ceasing flow of young, educated and hip (I live in Austin after all) Americans who pride themselves on their mixed (or even of exclusively one distinct other nationality) parenthood without speaking the native language of their parents or having anything but a superficial conception and understanding of their - parents' - country of origin. This kind of self-effacing integration never ceases to amaze me.

Two, living - even temporarily - in the United States today, one cannot help but notice the astoundingly developed parallelism of the three main American societies - the, still, dominating white Anglo-Saxon one, the black or Afro-American one, and the Hispanic or Latino society. The supermarket I shop in is almost exclusively Hispanic, the basketball court I frequent on Sundays is run by Afro-Americans, I am (pretty much) the only white guy playing there. They all identify as American of course, even pride themselves on their country and its achievements, but they do not mix. The hipster coffee shop I write this in probably has one black customer a day, I have yet to see a Hispanic in here who wasn't working in the kitchen. It is possible to cross over, but then you become a white Hispanic or a white black guy. You, to some extent, lose adherence to the group people would assume you naturally belong to. This especially because these groups are not just separated physically but, most importantly, culturally. There are black radio stations, Hispanic ones and the white, indie-rock or underground hipster stations. Hispanics of course converse in Spanish or at least bilingually, switching from one language to another, employing English words within a Spanish sentence or vice versa, but the Afro-American society also has its own jargon including references and adopted words and expressions which white Americans or Hispanics will not unequivocally understand.

So what's the point that I am trying to make? Quite honestly, I don't know if I even have one. This is not an attempt at showing that integration capacities in the US are lower than in Europe. Far from it. I'm not even sure I believe that. Rather, I guess I want to show how integration, assimilation and the influx of immigrants into the US are topics far more complicated and far less successful than too many people pretend or believe them to be.

Life in Austin

Another year, another country. No, not really. But at least another US state. Texas. Austin to be precise. I work far too much to have gained a proper perspective on this place and I've also barely spent two weeks here, still a few first impressions are in order.

Texas evokes a certain kind of imagery of course: Conservatism, the death penalty, George W Bush, endless landscapes, cowboys, cattle. All of that undoubtedly is valid to a degree, I won't get into that here, but it also applies very little to the city of Austin. The place (house and area) I live in is in fact dominated by tattooed hippies - in its modern, inflationary meaning - all of whom seemingly play in a band while paying their bills through crappy day jobs. Life is dominated by concerts and cheap Lone Star beers. The atmosphere is great, too many outdoor bars to count, friendly communicative people (they are American after all). That's the personal side of the story.

On the other side you have the supermarket around the corner from my place (Fiesta) which few non-hispanic (not to say Mexican) customers seem to frequent. A harsh racial divide with my arrival in a black, family-run barbecue place surprising far too many people. My colleagues and friends here are white, disparaging comments about especially hispanics common. This is nothing new of course, but I had semi-forgotten it and economic differences perpetuate the racial separation in a manner here which is far less prominent than in most East coast cities. And keep in mind that the people I know and meet are the open-minded ones often boasting astonishing international experiences.

Finally, and this of course is a common theme of mine, aintellecetualism - even antiintellectualism - is a cultural trait far too popular in the US for my taste. Male and female roles are of stereotypical nature it is almost comical which is all the more shocking considering I know how reflected and intelligent people can be when prodded. This is not limited to gender issues evidently. One also sees it in the preponderance of fecal, sexual, racial and other pointless jokes; the obsession with asinine drinking games and in general the need to always do something. Quiet reflection is not popular. The TV has to be turned on, music blaring, a game to be played here, a video to be taken and viewed there. It's all about getting the most out of a short-lived moment of activity and anyone not up to said game, quip, joke, or simply looking to disengage himself from a group movement is not fun or at least weird.

I realize that most of this post is of a rather damning nature. Let me put a bit of a disclaimer on this thus. Austin is a great town, from what I've seen so far, Texas is a very interesting state that I hope to see more of, but, as one of my new friends put it, deconstruction, criticism, is the order of the day - I cannot for the life of it remember which philosopher he attributed this to. Was it Nietzsche? Accordingly - or not, seeing as I had been doing that for a long time and before he ever quoted this to me - I rarely praise and often attack.

Life in Washington, DC

I undoubtedly should have kept up with this while I was actually living there, but life is busy sometimes and even though I have no truly valid excuse we will just leave it at that. Just a few comments on DC before the immediacy of my memoirs has faded. The city per se is nice, maybe a bit too small, with only a few neighborhoods really being enjoyable to explore (as in not too quiet and residential). What is amazing are the cultural options available at no charge. Most of the museums are free and some of them house big-screen movie theatres which show older films (kostenlos aber nicht umsonst sozusagen - sorry). I saw John Ford's The Searchers recently for example and it's a thrill to see such a film on a big screen and listen to an entertaining discussion about it afterwards. There are a couple (as in not many, but at least some do exist) decent blues bars. I believe there a variety of classy Jazz spots, but I am not so much into those so I wouldn't know.

The one (negative) thing that struck and that I will try to lay out in some detail here, is the race question. I have written about this extensively (well, whatever that may mean - check my labels if you care to know) and quite contradictorily at times, reflecting where I was living, what I was doing there and with whom I was interacting. In DC what astonished me (surprised me again I should maybe say) was the clear-cut segregation between African-Americans, Hispanics and whites in the city. Some bars around U Street or in Adams Morgan populated by the young, studious and (soon-to-be) successful manage to attract a more mixed crowd. These people are not only the exception though, they constitute a small elite of post-racial Americans.

The house that I lived in was relatively far up in the North, towards the Maryland state line. As American cities go, the grid system, offered us two parallel routes toward the mall, downtown or any other relevant destination. Leaving the house you would turn right and walk two blocks to Georgia Avenue where you could take a bus going South, or you would turn left and after half a block take one of the 50s going in the same direction on 14th Street. Per se there is nothing peculiar to this kind of harmless public transportation system. Remember this is the US, buses are full during the day, move slow and on the weekend and late at night, get ready to wait.

This not the point though. Rather, the depressing fact was that when taking the bus down Georgia I (seriously) think I not once saw a white guy on the bus. Nor even anyone looking as if he (or she) were a Latino(a). No one ever bothered us (except a few annoying, but friendly drunks), but how does it reflect on a society that whole areas of one city (none other than the nation's capital!) can be as segregated? Going down 14th (except during rush hour with everyone going to work), the same thing in reverse. Hispanics dominating the bus, the sidewalk and stores. In this case of course a language barrier even prevented me from knowing what people around me were talking about.

And that's that really. Is there anything else to say? As I already pointed out, some young, successful types hang out in interracial groups. Mostly, while drinking too expensive beers and looking hip in bars and clubs dominated by (sorry) bad music. That is not the point though. Large parts of the population, and every one who is poor keep, to themselves. The melting pot most likely always was a myth, but in DC it is just astonishing how interaction simply does not take place. Maybe the young professionals cited above are leading the way towards a better, more beautiful, postracial America. But maybe they (and their President) are only an aberration of an unalterable truth. The United States is and always has been a segregated country. With different ethnic groups living side by side but not mingling or truly interacting.

Life in Calgary II

Me not knowing anyone in Calgary I spent my late Saturday evening riding around town and looking at places and people a bit. At some point when I was sitting on my bike while leaning on a lamp post, I was approached by an Aborigine asking me whether I'd have 67 cents I was not emotionally attached to. Apart from that being a pretty decent line of course I have been intrigued by the Aborigines (or Indians, Native Americans or whatever you might call them) living in Calgary ever since I got here. The few Natives you see running around here are a rather sad sight, quite clearly drunks, quite evidently without any kind of decent home. The impression of Canada as a better (because socially and environmentally more responsible) USA fades away when you see these figures tumbling along the street in downtown Calgary while the new (white) rulers of the place pass them in their massive trucks and SUVs.

So, to get back to my story, I gave the guy a two-dollar piece which prompted him to call me a good person. I replied that I wasn't as sure of that as him and we struck up a conversation as he took for a lack of confidence my sense of realism and felt he should help me with that. I sat on a bench for maybe 30 minutes with him, while he sipped from a bottle of mouthwash (the cheapest alcohol to be had apparently). The guy obviously was completely fucked up. He kept on telling me that he works for the Aboriginal Secret Service and that these guys were better and bigger than the CIA. He insisted that Russia was going to invade Iran and wanted to know whether Germany was going to help them. He sincerely asked me whether I would kill a Jew if given the chance.

All of that really seems besides the point though, since he is such a prime example of how society destroys those that do not fit into its mold. His alcoholic father and mother abandoned him (or the government took him away from them, not quite sure which). He was raised with 'your folks' as he put it, meaning white people, but spent part of his youth with the Blackfeet as well. He hates Natives because they believe him white, he hates whites because he is a no-good drunk Indian with them. No, he doesn't hate either one of them, he just hates how both make him feel. He drinks with abandon, going for mouthwash not only because it's cheap but also because you can get it at eight in the morning, liquor stores only open at ten.

Yet, he also is a warm-hearted, genuinely nice human being (or he was towards me in any case). He is not dumb (loads of more 'successful' people believe in conspiracy theories) and has a broad knowledge of (pop)-culture. Human tragedy. Of course. But is it more than that? Does the post-national Canada I praised in my previous post even exist? Maybe it does, but only exists for well-educated people of high social standing. I have yet to see one Native American in any of the numerous downtown luncheons I've frequented this past week. The only thing I've read in the paper about them ever since I got here, was that they are labeled as a threat to national security because of a couple of pipeline bombings in the north of Alberta.

Is something rotten in the state of Denmark?

Life in Calgary

The funny thing about Calgary (in this particular case, read: Canada) is that it is very much like the United States. Except that it's not. Yeah, I know that makes a lot of sense. I've been here about a week now, I've been very busy with work, so I haven't managed to get around and explore a lot, but I just bought a used bike off some hobo for $10 yesterday and will be discovering the city on that in the weeks to come, especially as work becomes more of a routine job and I'll have more time on the side.

I had already spent some time in Calgary when I was about 14 and came here with my parents (and sister), but most of what I remember from that time is related to trips we undertook outside of Calgary (Banff, the Big Horn River) and the suburban life style that I had had never experienced before. This time around what struck me the most so far has been the niceness of people. In the States people are super friendly, but one is never sure how much of that is put on (if not say hypocrisy). Here I constantly get the impression that people are genuinely nice. The woman in the store where I got a sandwich yesterday was positively charmed by the fact that I was from Europe (placing me in England upfront) and it didn't seem fake at all. Maybe Canadians just act better than most Americans, I've been falling for it in any case.

Calgary is very much dominated by the oil and gas industry which in turn is very, very male-dominated. If you go for lunch downtown during the week most places are filled almost exclusively by (white) men in suits being served by scantily clad (hot pants or really short mini skirts while they bring me lunch? really?), tall and rather attractive women. Disgusting, if you ask me.

Apart from that the town is sprinkled with little parks and very much accessible by bike, if a little too spread out to walk. Especially when you live downtown. Also Canada, even more so than the USA maybe, represents a post-racial society. I played ball on an outside court yesterday, with two little Asian guys, two French-speaking African-Canadian teenagers, some tall white dude and a Latino-looking guy. And everyone got along really well. At the same time all of these guys were pretty bad ballers and there seems to be a clear negative correlation between people's niceness and their ball-playing skills. Me being only semi-nice on the court, I am also semi-good, which let's me dominate a court like the one yesterday, but is not sufficient for really tough ones.

A word on that tough court too. I found a gym where I believe the best game in town is run. I (as usual, talk about being a skinny, white guy with longish hair and not enough of a cocky bastard) have a hard time getting on the court there, but I do manage and it's been good. I definitely will enjoy getting intro proper playing shape again. Anyway, from a sociological point of view this court is really interesting because it is dominated by Sudanese guys (some of which are really good ballers, tall, skinny, fast, aggressive). When I was in Boston last year I kept on running into guys from Cap Verde there, here it's the Sudanese. In both cases they must be living on the continent for a while (their English is impeccable), but still talk in their mother tongue amongst each other. How these immigration patterns come about is fascinating even if I cannot offer any kind of explanation for them.

Life in Berlin

Coming home for a weekend and jumping right back into life there seems so easy. I carried my sister's and her boyfriend's crap up the stairs for three hours. I had drinks with my ol-timey friends, coffee in the Bergmannstr with more recent ones. Yet, having spent so much time away changes one's perceptions, makes one have a stranger's point of view more than that of an inhabitant at various points.

Case in point. I went swimming Sunday, left Berlin and spent the afternoon at a lake, drinking beers, lying in the sun, discussing life and the such. Good times. The point isn't that I hadn't been at the Sacrower See in ages, nor that things seemingly hadn't changed with the old east-German Datschas still standing, but rather that I was shocked, well not not shocked, surprised would be more appropriate, at the number of naked kids, bare-breasted women and nude adults in general that were hanging out there. A few years ago I probably would have not even noticed this, but yesterday it struck me as a rather specific German cultural element. In France or Spain women might go topless at times, in the US, Turkey or Italia (talking about countries I decently know thus) this virtually never happens and even in the aforementioned countries full nudity is rather rare.

The popular explanation for this peculiar German trait relates it to the oppressive East-German regime which led people to some kind of inner emigration (to the beach) and liberation (by taking off their clothes). While there undoubtedly is some truth to this theory, FKK (Freikörperkultur - free body culture) apparently was far more popular in Eastern Germany than the rest of the country, it does not seem to offer a sufficient explanation as it discounts the Austrian and West German FKKs. Can I offer a better explanation then? No, sorry. I will pass it along if I come across something though.

Life in Istanbul IV

What really confounded me about Istanbul was the astounding disconnect between various parts of the population. As self-confessed post-nationalist I am convinced of that the nation state is nothing but a artificial construct without any true meaning. My relationship with young, educated tweensters from France, England, or the USA is far closer than my connection with fellow countrymen of mine who lack said education and engage in professional activities that are more closely tied to the traditional industrial sector or the low-skilled service industry. To realize that these fault lines within one nation as that much stronger in a country as nationalistic as Turkey provides with some food for thought (and is quite ironic really).

I have no idea whether what I am describing is a completely normal situation for emerging countries to be in. They struck me as odd, but that might simply be due to a lack of experience concerning non-Western countries. Basically, in Turkey, two main groups seem to have virtually no contact with one another. Those would be on the one hand the Kemalists, the young upper middle class who follow in the footsteps of Atatürk's Westernization in the 20s and 30s and in a sense glorify Western culture and capitalism. Concretely this results in their seemingly tring (if not consciously) being über-Western. This results in girls wearing skirts, shorts and tops that you would rarely see in the streets of Berlin or Paris. You might see these kind of revealing clothes in clubs and discos but not in every day life, the way they are used in Turkey. It means that the restaurants and bars these people frequent rarely serves Turkish food anymore, but instead the kind of internationalized uniform world food one finds every else as well (wraps, pizza, fries, you know the deal). It means that people are surprised to hear me order a Turkish coffee not a European one. It means that my trips into less sanguine parts are met with incomprehensive looks and a comment on the massive presence of head scarves in those neighborhoods.

I have not really met anyone from the other side as the religious, Western-Turkish and economic divide to a large extent seems to be an educational one as well. Basically, most of these more traditional people's forte are not foreign languages. But, I was struck by the differences and by how this separation is emphasized by most of my colleagues.

Life in Istanbul III (Basketball Edition)

I've been playing some pick-up ball lately over on the Asian side. There is a little park, right next to the water, with 5 fence-enclosed courts. The place always is full of players whenever I show up and thus quite the change from the courts close to the place I live where there barely ever is anyone playing. As people who travel and play ball at any decent level know, basketball styles vary as much as any other cultural expression. Basketball in the US is much more physical for example.

Turkey is an interesting case as there a couple of aspects to it that I have never encountered in any other place that I've played in (basically: Germany, the US, France and Austria). People here play a warm-up game before the actual one starts. The first three points don't count. The game only starts after those first three buckets. During the game the intensity is relatively high, but static. That means that it does not increase when the game nears its end (usually going to 30, with 1s and 2s). There also are virtually no celebratory gestures after the game. Winning doesn't seem to matter as much as in the US for example. Also, there are no fouls. Or barely any. I don't mean that people don't call fouls, they do. There simply are relatively few fouls. People play defense (if not crazily intense), but don't hack.

Finally, I've found it interesting that people here (comparable to Americans) play rather unorthodoxly, but well. There are quite a few people that shoot really well, even while their technique makes you cringe.

And yes, don't worry, I will continue to engage in qualitative field research as much as I can.

Life in Istanbul II

So, I started branching out a little bit this weekend, exploring neighborhoods that upper middle-class Turkish people told me were dangerous, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I found a really nice park, with a relatively nice basketball court (the hoops are decent, the ground is gravel) in a neighborhood (Kasımpaşa I believe) that is a lot more down to earth than the one I live in. There are even more people on the street. Elderly women hanging in windows looking at people, kids playing with bottle caps, lots of women with head scarves and in general a crazy amount of kids. Definitely a bit poorer (probably even drastically so) and (yesterday, Sunday, at least) by a gigantic street market (kind of like the one in Neukölln, only more Turkish people, drastically less non-Turkish ones, and virtually no one that speaks English, French, or German).

In spite of the (exaggerated, I feel) warning I had received I felt really comfortable in the neighborhood. An interesting sub-aspect of this feeling of security is that not everyone recognizes (or acknowledges) that I am a foreigner. There are enough Turks who have a rather light skin (sometimes even red hair) for me not to stick out too much. My clothes sometimes give me away (shorts and sandals are something popular with the westernized crowd mainly), but I can get by without even being (too obviously) looked at most of the time.

Related to this surprising racial diversity (well, a lacking complete racial homogeneity describes it better I believe), which seems to me a remnant of the Ottoman Empire's far reach (or it might not, I have no idea really, but I feel like the explanation does sound good), is the occasional presence of black guys (I have not seen a woman yet) who are quite obviously Turkish and regularly integrated into local culture as far as I can tell (based on them sitting in tea houses with all the other men basically). These guys usually seem to be part of a poorer strata of Turkish society, yet make an impression of not being recent immigrants but accepted individuals and long-established members of that very society - one never sees them in groups for example, which would imply a more recent common immigration background.

Life in Istanbul I

It's been a week that I've been staying here now, and while my grasp of Istanbul as a city, let alone Turkey as a country, is extremely rudimentary, I would like share a few observations.

I live in a neighborhood called Cihangir here, one which has frequently been described to me as being an expat quartier. While this might be very well be true, foreigners are a common sight on the street, the place is still (luckily) very much dominated by Turks. This, in turn, leads me to my first (and primary) complaint of life here. I have a very hard time dealing with my muted existence here due to the fact that I don't speak any Turkish (discounting the three words I've learned since arriving here). Even in more touristy places (and I try to avoid those) people (customers and servers) have only a very rudimentary command of English (or French or German). Surprisingly when talking to elderly people chances are higher to be able to communicate with them in French (and sometimes German) than in English. In any case, this is a sore subject for me as it makes me extremely uncomfortable to be incapable to express even the simplest inquiry or to understand the response.

As a disclaimer, I have to add that I have met a decent amount of Turkish people whose command of English is astounding. The problem is, I feel, that there is a large disconnect between a select few who are absolutely fluent and the large majority who can barely say anything. Whatever the implications of this (high Gini-coefficient? the advantages of private schooling?), I am very undecided what to do about this as I will most likely not stay here long enough to make it worth it for myself to truly try to learn Turkish. I guess I will simply have to deal with the accompanying frustration.

Very charming is the fact that life tends to take place on the street here. Shopowners sit in front of their stores, drinking tea (çay), street vendors roam with carts selling fruits or collecting scrap metal. Men gather by the dozens in tea houses and sit for hours. More modern cafés cater to a younger crowd. Restaurants and bars invariably have virtually all of their customers sitting outside, making certain smaller pedestrian streets hard to walk through (and quite deafening). Kids play outside and every shady corner, step or grass area is occupied by one, two or three men (mostly, the grassy areas in parks are also occupied by whole families, who bring tea-making machines, water containers and stay hours). All in all, this provides a really nice atmosphere and I seriously wonder how this city changes with the weather in the winter.

The glaring negative aspect of this outdoor life is the sexual divide. Young women and men one sees without distinction, but there is a true generational gap when it comes to the presence of women on the street. Secondly, this seemingly charming street activity has at least some basis in very high national unemployment rates (~17% overall, more than 25% for youths). Thus, and as much as I enjoy the atmosphere, at least one underlying (and I assume important) explanation for it is of the more depressing kind.

To be continued....

Boston II

• So, after having been here for nearly three weeks I finally found a bad-ass basketball court. It is right next to my work too and in case anyone is looking for me within the next few weeks anywhere from six to nine, you'll know where to find me. Why is it bad-ass? Because there are not so many Asian and white kids playing there as on the other playground that I went to before. It is pure racial stereotyping I realize that, but it strikes me over and over again how much of a difference there exists in this country between black and white (omitting Asians here for a second) ballers. The game is much more serious, everybody plays harder, talks more trash, is faster, more athletic and hits their shots at a higher percentage. Especially in Boston where the black population (downtown in any case) is a small minority, it is noticeable how much of black man's game this is. Maybe places like Indiana are different, but it has definitely been my experience so far wherever I went in the United States.


• Also, if you ever come to Boston. Check out Monday's blues night at Wally's Café. Great show, good musicians (especially one of the sax players and the female(!) Japanese(!!) drummer), nice crowd. A little too modern and funky for me at times, but they covered Junior Wells' Messin' with the Kid, so who am I to nit-pick.

USA

So, I've been in Boston for two weeks, I've had my ups and downs (socially and professionally). I like the town. Too expensive, too fancy for my taste, but very chill anyway. Highly international, I was sitting in a coffee place yesterday with some Syrians (speaking Arabic) on one side, some Bulgarians on the other and me talking French with a Haitian girl on my phone. I like these things, this conglomerations of people from all over the place. Today, I played ball with three Iranians (who were pretty good, but some skinny white motherfucker from Germany killed everyone on that court) and some Spanish-talking guy. Sitting in a park yesterday, I noticed the amount of Americans walking by who most obviously have somekind of an ethnic background. While none of this really is anything new I just figured I should point it out again.

The United States is easily (becoming in any case) the only non-ethnic society of the world.

I saw a little league game yesterday, with both teams being Hispanic, black and white. I had a conversation with nice black British gentleman the other day who has been living here for 20 years is married to a white American and in a very evident manner has been accepted by his white step-son as the surrogate father. Please don't get me wrong, I realize that the US has a long way to go, that blacks and hispanics earn less, are less educated, less represented in power positions. But at the same time, the irrelevance of race has moved further here than any other place in the world that I know of, especially among children and with an eye towards the future isn't that all that really matters?

Just to piss of this Texan dirt farmer I know, the United States from my point of view is a post-modern society based on modern sentiments (Europe I would argue is the opposite, a modern society based on post-modern sentiments). As a disclaimer I should say that the definitions of post-modern and modern I use here are really personal, I am not up to date on the discussion of the concepts, I make up my own meanings so to speak. Anyway, what I mean is that the in the United States race is not as relevant as in Europe (Germany in any case, but with some exceptions in regard to France I think this is very generally applicable), making it a post-modern society not dominated by one homogenous people. The ironic thing about all this is that this society is based on concepts of nationalism of a pride in one's country that is far less existent in Europe (because of reasons of size, history, whatever), a very modern concept in the end that really should have left any validity with the Second World War.

But maybe the American society is schizophrenic in general, making this combination less bizarre than it seems at first glance (and one could of course argue that these two interact supporting one another (again, look at France)). Look at this country after all, I have never seen a place where truly gigantic (fat) people at least outwardly portray less shame at their weight (and why would they, I like that they do), yet at the same time I know no other place where more guys clearly take drugs to bulk up. A country where certain events are broadcast on TV with a three second delay in order to prohibit another nipplegate, but where girls going out might as well wear no top at all considering their cleavage. A country that has produced Jefferson, Hamilton, Madison, Franklin, Twain, Faulkner, Hemingway, Auster to name just a few, but where intellectualism is seemingly frowned upon. A country where the beer is light in order to preserve one's looks but one whose traditional food sources are greasy as fuck. Amazing the contrasts one can find here really.

Again, please don't misunderstand me. There a massive problems to deal with here, just bike along E Berkley anytime in the evening, go to the basketball courts of Dorchester, check out the bums on Newbury (and anywhere else), yet this racial post-modernity I find intriuiging, that's all I'm saying really.

Boston

I have been here less than 48 hours so just a few notes on my first impressions:

• My first conversation with a Bostonian showcased ... nothing really, but it was pretty funny. I was sitting on the bus going downtown with my bags, when this guy sitting across the aisle from me asks what the ZRH on my bags stood for. Response: Zurich, where I had come from. Bostonian: "Where is that? Africa?" And no, I don't think he was kidding.


• Boston makes a very clean, very European city. Lots of white people with suits on the buses, little parks, community gardens, the houses not too big. Me being me (aka dumb) I decided to walk home from work yesterday though and, having had no map, got completely lost somewhere in the project area of South Boston. Basketball courts, toothless black men that greet you when you walk past, hispanic women sitting on the porch yelling to each other across the street. Some cops stopped me at some point figuring a white dude with a nice shirt and pants was in the wrong area, but I never felt threatened or anything. As far as my experience is concerned Americans tend to exaggerate the danger of these parts anyway.


• As a side-note, this phenomena of older (especially but not exclusively), poor black men greeting you with a 'how's it goin' or something similar without prompt nor any desire on their part to bum anything off you is something I have never quite figured out. I kind of like it actually, I figure it is a respect thing of some sort, but it is very much restricted to a certain socio-economic group.

A Tramp Abroad I

As an avid fan of Crevecoeur as well as Mark Twain I figured I had to write at least some commentary on life in the US while being here - and no, this does not mean that I am comparing myself in any way possible with those two, that would be blasphemy. Thus, today my first such entry. Others will (in a more or less structured manner) follow.

Most Europeans don't seem to realize how racially diverse the United States really is. Even while living in the South, in Chapel Hill and thus not even an urban center (even if a university town) it is surprises me over and over again, how many people either have an obvious immigration background (meaning they look as if they came from the Indian subcontinent or South East Asia) or claim one from less exotic places (such as the Netherlands). Now, as a German one will quite often hear the ridiculous statement that one's conversation partner is German too, because his ancestors came from there 100 years ago. This is usually is followed by a comment on how that person is only able to say scheiße (or Autobahn, Guten Tag...). This peculiar fashion of self-identification is not what I mean though.

Contrarily an incredible amount of people grew up mostly in the US, but due to their parents' relatively recent immigration, they still have more or less close ties to their 'homeland' and (importantly) usually speak the language. In the few days I have been here I have already met people with a Bengali, Indian, Chinese, Egyptian, Iranian background (and these are just some of the more exotic sounding ones). While UNC is dominated by white American-American students, the number of these more international ones should not be underestimated and are incomparable to a society as homogenic as Germany.

Yet, what I really wanted to address today was the question of race. I am after all living in the South and quite close to Greensboro and accordingly one of the hot-spots of the Civil Rights Movement. As already pointed out, most students are white (and come from North Carolina), but there is a sizable black contingent on campus. Admittedly, I was surprised at how few there actually are, but then my high school experience probably had prepared me for different percentages.

Race relations in the USA are notoriously difficult, due mainly to historical reasons. I am simply astounded by how segregated American society still is though, I have not lived here in a while and had seemingly forgotten how sharply distinguished these groups are. Arguably, the separation lies not so much with the actual skin color, but is more due to a cultural expression (clothing, language, music...). Thus, there are white black guys as well as black white guys. Yet, to surprisingly large extent people do not mix. A simple look around in the dining hall makes clear that each group stays mostly to itself (and this does include Asian students btw, who I will kind of ignore for the time being though).

Of course, this is not as simple as I am making it out to be right now. Firstly, there is a lot of interaction between all groups, it is not like people don't talk to or don't know each other at all. Secondly, the groups (as already stressed) are not completely homogenic, just to a large extent. Yet, this de facto separation clearly exists and I am still having a hard time trying to grapple with it.

An important aspect of this racial divide I find is the image of black masculinity. For a lot of black guys at this school it is quite blatant how much they define themselves through their masculinity. Most of them are more or less athletic, most of them are cool - in the sense that they perceive themselves as much as they are actually are, but that latter point really isn't what I am trying to discuss here - and they give off an unapproachable vibe to some extent.

I personally believe that this is still prevalent because of black men's' historical emasculation as the financial provider and protector of the family. Yet, I would be very interested to find out more about this and hope that I will get to do so in my year here.

I want to add that most of the guys I have gotten to know mainly through basketball have been really nice after some initial arrogance phase (white guy + long hair = can't play ball, deserves no respect) and that for others this whole argument is not true in the first place. But I believe it is a fact and would be interested in anyone's comments on this subject matter.

Being Jewish 3

I've worn my Yarmulka for a week now and my experiment's original time frame is coming to an end (I haven't yet decided whether I will prolong it for the first week of classes which start tomorrow in order to have a bigger sample and exposure to more people). So far I have not heard one outright antisemitic comment. Yet, two people have commented in a rude manner that at least implicitely made a negative attitude towards jews obvious.

In the store right near my house, the shopkeeper rather incredously asked me: "Is that a Jew hat?" I responded affirmitavily and no real further conversation took place. In the second incident a baldheaded guy in the company of a dude in a German national football jersey uttered to his friend: "That's is a Jew!"

In both cases it was not so much what was so said, but the way in which the word Jew was pronounced, that made clear that these guys had a very negative opinion of Jews. Still, it seems clear that antisemitism is less openly pronounced as I thought it would be up front.

One important aspect should be mentioned though, one that a friend of mine made me aware of: Most people seem simply not to know that a yarmulka is part of the jewish religion. If this is true, and I definitely have come to the conclusion that it is, then of course the experiment has not so much led to the aforementioned conclusion, but rather has failed due to a lack of knowledge on the part of its - unknowning - subjects.

Being Jewish

So, I've started my experiment of being Jewish in Germany by wearing a Kippah now. I will wear this skullcap every time I leave the house for at least a week now. Honestly, I was disappointed by the beginning of this exercise though. Apart from stupid jokes by my friends I didn't hear one comment all evening. I did have the impression that some people - mostly punks or other blatantly left-wing guys - smiled at me more than they usually would have. It will be interesting how this will develop and I am kind of excited about it, but so far the experiment has been rather uneventful, which - considering I am trying to see how antisemitic German society - is good news.